In pursuit of the perfect croissant, I took a reader’s advice and went to Craftsman and Wolves. The name, I’d read on CAW’s site, “is a nod to the craftsman and the numerous challenges that one faces when pursuing their craft.” How true, I murmured, my taste buds tingling in sympathy. Even if CAW’s grammar was imperfect, its (or should I say, their?) pastries would be sublime.

The problem is, it was lunchtime and so my guest and I ordered lunch first. That was a mistake.

We ordered quiche with sides of pickled beets and green beans; a savory tart of fromage blanc, bok choy and corn; and a Little Gem salad with shaved pecorino or parmesan and a white dressing. (For any non-foodies who’ve accidentally stumbled onto this column, Little Gem is a miniature Romaine.)

Salad, corn, green beans—the words evoke a summer freshness. But everything tasted like . . . what’s the dreariest month of the year? February?

Swamped in a white cheese dressing, the lettuce leaves became leaden boats. The green beans, also smothered in a white cheese, lost all snap.

The green beans.

The green beans.

A sharp goat cheese might have added flavor, although green beans may be best with a vinaigrette or lemon and salt.

“Maybe someone’s on a salt-free diet,” Lola suggested, offering a bite of her quiche. It tasted oddly like nothing.

The pickled beets, which I highly recommend, proved to be the only thing with any zing.

Having labored through lunch, my companion and I had no appetite for dessert. And that’s a shame, because I have tasted some Craftsman and Wolves pastries and they are superb. Those purportedly perfect croissants will have to wait for another day. Unless the wolves get there first.