Restaurant review: Chang’s Kitchen in the Sunset

Chang’s Kitchen is that Chinese restaurant that is not San Tung on Irving Street. 

Everyone knows San Tung, everyone raves about San Tung, everyone goes to San Tung. But friends recently reported that right across the street from always-a-line San Tung is Chang’s Kitchen, and they deemed it every bit as good. Challenge accepted. (Caveat: I have not been to San Tung, nor am I afraid to stand in a line, but that’s for another review.)

Chang’s is a very typical Sunset District Asian restaurant, with minimal décor, save the requisite golden Buddha and plastic-clad photos of specials on the walls. It’s a clean, calm space, especially on a Saturday about an hour before they close for the afternoon. Great choice after a visit to the De Young, and we found parking easily.

Upon being seated and served a frosty glass of Tsingtao, we were graciously gifted a steaming cup of hot-and-sour soup.

Typical of the genre, silky tofu floated in a nicely tangy broth, with a touch of heat.

We ordered the dry-fried chicken wings (a well-beloved specialty at that other place) and hoped they’d come first, but they ended up arriving after both our other dishes.  

One of the pictures at eye level on the wall next to our table showed a beautiful-looking dish of burnished garlic filet mignon with veggies.  

The reality was quite a bit lighter in tone, but everything on the plate was flavorful, the beef tender, and the veggies crisp and plentiful.  

Next up, pork spare ribs in black bean sauce.

I loved these little riblets, especially the salty/funky bites of fermented black beans. Essentially finger food for me, as the meat slipped luxuriously off the bones. Both dishes were so generous, we took a lot home.

Finally, the wings!

Ah, golden bird! Can they possibly be better across the street? Maybe as good, but better?  These free-range chicken wings came beautifully hot and crispy, and stayed so until the very last finger-licking nibble.

Seasoned perfectly, spiked with jalapeños and scallions for a pleasant amount of heat to complement the crackling, crunchy goodness, and so very tender and juicy inside, these just slapped, as the kids say. You can get them with a spicy/sweet sauce or just the standard salt and pepper. Either way, you must have these.

And yes, we virtue-signaled with a batch of garlicky, crispy Chinese broccoli alongside.

As with many Chinese restaurants, and especially one that bills itself as fusion, there is much to try here, and probably better to go with more than two people to get the full experience of what’s on offer. Or, become a regular (of which we saw a few — people unafraid to buck the trend!), and just work your way through the extensive menu. 

You’ll find old school favorites like crab Rangoon, General Tso’s chicken, and mu shu pork, as well as Korean items, Szechuan dishes, and dim sum. They also have quite a few tofu and all-veggie dishes. Does Chang’s do it all well? Only one way to find out.

Next time you’re in the area and spot the humongous line, do a 180 and walk right into Chang’s.  You’ll be met with friendly, warm service, more than reasonable prices, and excellent wings!

Chang’s Kitchen
1030 Irving St.
San Francisco