I know, I know, Brenda’s Meat and Three has been around forever – 12 years, maybe? If you live in the neighborhood (Western Addition/Nopa), you know it, you love it, you may quibble weakly about authenticity – whatever the fuck that means – but it’s still going strong for a reason.
Born as the sister to the beloved Brenda’s French Soul Food in the Tenderloin, both the brainchildren of Brenda Buenviaje, a New Orleans transplant, BM&3 brings us the Southern concept of meat and three: select a protein –meatloaf, pork chop, fried chicken, etc. – and three side dishes. Every day of the week features a new protein, and there are a plethora of sides to choose from.
BM&3 has a warm, diner-like ambience, with a giant horseshoe counter dominating the space. Sure it’s manufactured, but it’s giving cozy like nobody’s business.
On my first visit, two of us shared a crawfish beignet with strawberry pepper jelly, and a side of one fried chicken thigh.
I found the beignet aromatic and rich, yet with a light exterior and a pleasantly tender center. The jelly went really well it, as well as with that heavenly piece of yardbird. I can easily see coming back just for the fried chicken, but I was thrilled to be able to order just a piece with the rest of my dinner.
My sister got the Meat & Three.
Consisting of meatloaf with gravy, garlicky green beans, mashed potatoes, and a fluffy biscuit, this combo just screamed folksy, homespun goodness. You’ll be ready to plow the north forty after a farm-hand meal like this. Or take a good long nap.
For my main, I got the Low Country Seafood Gumbo with Andouille:
Rich and peppery, with a bit of heat and a good amount of well-cooked seafood, the snappy Andouille did its job of providing a spicy contrast. Requisite okra added to the pleasure of this savory standard. I further indulged in a small bowl of red beans and rice, a good, smoky rendition.
You’d think that would have been enough, but no…
Our arms were twisted into getting the special dessert – a big, fat slice of chocolate cream pie! Beautifully fluffy whipped cream over silky chocolate mousse, doused with a caramel sauce. Nice interplay between salty and sweet on a fudgy crust. I got over (barely) not getting the Bananas Foster bread pudding.
On my second visit, I started out with fried oysters.
Oh lawdy! The crunchy, craggy cornmeal crust was a perfect foil to the hot, juicy tenderness of the meaty oysters embedded within. A tangy chipotle remoulade rounded out the flavors of this seductive bit of foreplay — er, I mean – side dish.
My dining companion went with the fried chicken meat and three…
Sides were collard greens, cheese grits and a wonderful stacked potato gratin. Of course she shared a piece of her bird with me, and I had a bite of each of the sides – all quite delectable, especially those spuds.
My fried chicken cravings temporarily sated, I was free to dig into the shrimp and cheesy grits with bacon tomato gravy.
Another wow. Some may say the cheesiness is overplayed; I say bring it. The decadent gravy cut through it all, giving zing and oomph to a lushly rich dish. And the abundance of well-prepared seafood was far from lost in the mix. The devil’s in the details when concocting such a thing; it takes skill to get the balance right.
There’s much more to try here, too… po’boys and burgers and salmon and pork belly, sweet potato fries and kale salads, ube beignets and that Banana’s Foster bread pudding (next time!)… the permutations are seemingly endless. (The breakfast menu makes me feel like I’ve missed the boat and will have to get there some morning soon.) To imbibe, there a low-ABV cocktails, beer and wine on tap, as well as by the bottle, soft drinks, and watermelon sweet tea. Prices are fairly reasonable, considering that for a few items you can order a cup instead of bowl, or make a meal of the sides if you’re so inclined.
A big thanks to Chef/Owner Buenviaje for continuing to grace our city with a little love from NOLA.
Brenda’s Meat & Three
919 Divisadero St.
S.F.