What began as a small get-together at Eskender Aseged’s studio apartment on York Street in 2004 soon turned into a nomadic restaurant that now sets up every Thursday and Friday nights at the Coffee Bar.

When he first started hosting dinners in 2004, one of his guests was Megan Lynch, then owner of Velo Rouge. Lynch asked him to cook at her cafe twice a week and his clientele expanded. Then, Radio Africa and Kitchen, the name of his moving feast, moved on to the Coffee Bar.

Aseged, who grew up in Ethiopia, learned cooking techniques from his mother. After moving to the United States some 20 years ago, he picked up more recipes and tips as he worked as a busboy or waiter. His menus now include flavors and spices from Ethiopia, the Mediterranean and Red Sea countries.

It’s “old-world recipes with a cleaner and more focused flavor,” he says. Spices and sauces, Aseged explains, should only enhance the flavor of the dish he’s making—not overpower it.