I’d been talking about going to Side A for ages, when I finally decided to quit yammering and just do it.
A year in, the space formerly occupied by Universal Café boasts co-owner Caroline Parker (and others) as DJ, spinning vinyl and giving house party vibes. The ambience is cool and lively, but with a definite undercurrent of down-home-ness. The wall of albums, industrial metal fixtures, and the signature curved bar all feel familiar and somehow comforting.
We were seated at a four-top where we could peep a bit of chef/co-owner Parker Brown’s action in the kitchen. We started out with the eggplant “gyro.”
Eggplant chunks with “bbq” spice were so sweet and caramelized they almost tasted like apple pie, atop pillowy pita, with “koto’la” – a feta-style goat cheese, tangy and briny, crunchy slaw, cool yogurt, and Fresno chilies for a pop of heat.
Most of our menu was vegetarian, but a couple of us did indulge in a little bone marrow.
Roasted marrow topped with a red onion jam, chives, and buttery brioche as the delivery mechanism. The decadence of beef fat, tempered by the sweet jam, made for a lovely few bites.
Followed by a broccolini dish.
The mild green crucifers were laid over a bed of maple hummus, sunflower seeds adding meatiness, with fresh chopped herbs and more Fresno chilies. The crunchy vegetal flavors and textures, contrasting with the slight sweetness of the creamy hummus, came together as perhaps my favorite dish of the night.
Next, curly fries.
How could we resist? Chef Brown showing off his Mid-Western chops! Perfectly crisp, not overly seasoned, served with aioli and ketchup. Just get these.
We shared a main of black cod.
Served over fat butterbeans, with salsa macha and charred scallions, this dish was surprisingly the mildest of the evening. I would have liked a little more oomph from the macha, but the skin on the fish was nicely crispy, its flesh moist.
Last of the savory dishes.
Dungeness crab risotto, with preserved lemon and pickled Fresnos. A wow – perfect cook on the risotto, and so much tender, crabby goodness. Hopefully this will be a seasonal repeat.
We espied a party sitting at the chef’s counter marveling over a towering confection, and had to have it… carrot cake! More mid-Westerness from Chef Parker…
Layers of tender carrot cake and whipped cream, in a pool of whiskey, with slivered almonds. A sweet, homey, and only slightly boozy finish. For all the hoopla, it tasted like carrot cake. Just as it should.
The Parkers have continued in the vein of Universal Café, providing another real neighborhood spot, a welcoming space that feels like you’re just hanging out in their home with a good glass of wine and some curly fries.
The menu changes regularly, but there’s always the gnocchi with short rib, always a cheeseburger, and always the garbage salad with pork belly – all three of which I’m going back to try, since I had a mostly veggie dinner this time.
And the prices? Well, the prices are pretty much what prices are these days. But good vibes and good food go a long way to assuaging our current collective angst.
Side A
2814 19th Street
S.F.