I let myself in to Old Skool Cafe on Third Street in Bayview Hunters Point a few minutes too early, opening the gates under the movie-theater style sign advertising live jazz — to the surprise of a flock of teens in red fedoras and vests, some decked out in bowties and suspenders.
As I approached the front desk, introducing myself as a reporter, a smiling 19-year-old named Jacey began to show me to my seat.
“Hold on,” said a towering man in a chef jacket. “Did she go through the gates?” he asked, shooting Jacey a look and a wry smile. Jacey led me back out the gates, and through the correct entrance, behind a red velvet rope and down a long, dimly lit passageway lined with gilded portraits of kids in red fedoras.
Old Skool Cafe, a nonprofit, jazz-themed soul-food restaurant, is completely run by at-risk youth, ages 16 to 22. The program currently employs 33 youth: Some have come from foster care; others are in the juvenile justice system on probation. They’re paid above minimum wage to train in food preparation, waiting on customers and bussing tables, but also to take classes in financial literacy, resumé-building, and “life skills.”
This month, San Francisco District Attorney Brooke Jenkins announced that her office will broaden the terms for prosecuting children as adults. Old Skool Cafe has a different approach to at-risk youth, giving them training and skills to help them find work, go to college, and avoid future incarceration.
The nonprofit has received generous funding over the years, including through the San Francisco Foundation, private donors, and the Golden State Warriors. This has made it possible for the restaurant to focus on the growth of its workers: Each participant is paired with a life coach, who helps them learn to navigate their own emotions and prepare for their future.
At the end of the two-year program, the graduates walk down the long red carpet, and into an externship with an organization that partners with Old Skool Café, in any field they choose. Some have chosen to work in food service, others in event planning, and one graduate chose to find a midwifery externship.
Teresa Goines, the founder of Old Skool Cafe and a former corrections officer, began running the nonprofit out of her apartment in 2004. In 2012, Old Skool Cafe became a full-fledged restaurant, and Goines remains the president. The current chef, Eddie Blyden, began as a volunteer; for the last three years, he’s made cooking at the restaurant and mentoring the youth his full-time career.
“I can’t explain how it happened,” said Blyden. “I entered the kitchen, and there was this kid, Royale, with a chef hat on, and I never left. I wouldn’t have it any other way.”
Blyden sat in a red velvet booth, turning to greet each youth as they walked through the door. “Hey, pants-walker!” he said, as a teenager, hands in pockets, shuffled into the kitchen, mumbling a greeting. The nickname, he said, was made up for his staff of awkward teens, tripping on their pant-legs.
Not all the participants are necessarily interested in pursuing restaurant careers, but Blyden says the work — with its attention to detail, close-knit teams, and constant communication with customers and staff — has helped many youth who have come through the program to transform themselves.
He remembers one child who was so quiet she would use a friend to speak for her, whispering answers into the friend’s ear. Now she works as a host, greeting customers as they walk through the door, and making a point to compliment women on their purses. “She has a special fondness for nice purses,” said Blyden.
The stories youth at Old Skool Cafe have shared with staff are often heartbreaking. Many have suffered severe trauma, and some have gone to work without having a home to go to at the end of the day.
Blyden remembers a youth telling him, “We know you love us, but we gotta get through it.” He says he didn’t know, at first, what she meant. But that sentence stuck with him throughout each shift at Old Skool Cafe, and he came to understand that there is only so much he, as a mentor, can do.
Blyden called over a teenager named Silver, who is a year and a half into the program. Silver heard about Old Skool Cafe through his probation officer. After he’s finished, he plans to go to City College and study business. He says the staff at the cafe, and his life coach, have helped him to build a resume and prepare for college, taking him for a tour of the campus.
“Sometimes we just talk,” said Silver.
The expectations for workers at Old Skool Cafe are different from those at a for-profit restaurant. Youth can be absent from work up to 12 times in the two-year program, can take time off to focus on their studies and, if they lash out at their coworkers or staff, they’re directed to a therapist instead of being fired.
Youth learn the skills they would get from a traditional job, without the fear of losing their income if they have problems at work.
Kenia, 19, has been at Old Skool Cafe for almost two years, and is currently a freshman at Cal State East Bay. She says her experience at Old Skool Cafe has already been transformative.
“I’ve learned to communicate with all kinds of people,” said Kenia. “When I first came here, I didn’t have any patience. It’s changed the way I think.”
Kenia recalls waiting on a diner who said they worked at a Juvenile Detention Center. Kenia says the diner then turned over her menu, revealing a doodle someone had scrawled on it, and proceeded to berate her, yelling that she expected this behavior from Kenia and her coworkers.
“I kept my cool,” said Kenia, “I apologized, and moved onto the next customer. She was probably just having a bad day.”
Though Kenia says she’s not sure what she’s going to do when the program is over, she has formed close friendships, especially with her life coach, whom she speaks to every week.
“We’re like this,” Kenia said, smiling and locking her two fingers together. “I’ve never been able to talk to an adult like that, about what I’ve been through, what I’m feeling.”
“We want to give youth the chance to grow, that’s what this program is about,” said Jeff Bostic, the program manager at Old Skool Cafe. Bostic, a part-time DJ and artist. “We want to help people find their spark, what gets them excited, and find their community.”
Ryan Nuss, the Executive General Manager of Old Skool Cafe, says he’s like “an uncle who jokes around too much.” As he stood behind the bar, kids gathered around him, hanging on each other, their chatting and laughter reverberating off the walls. He says youth often keep in contact with him, and their life coach, after they graduate and move on to their externships.
Chef Blyden remarked that one graduate was planning on surprising them with a visit this spring. “Though not much of a surprise,” said Blyden. “He did tell everyone on staff, but we’re excited to see him. Anyone can always come back.”
I had the honor of meeting Eddie Bryden in Colusa California. I was immediately drawn to his charismatic way. We sat and talked about Old School Cafe and my career teaching Special Education, In a high school setting. Most of my students were at risk teens. It was so nice to meet him and hear about what you all do at the Cafe. God Bless you all , may your future be full of love and adventure. Sincerely Natalee Jeffrey
Thank you for highlighting a wonderful organization that has produced real results and made a difference in many young peoples lives. If you’ve never been to Old Skool Cafe I encourage you to go. It’s a wonderful experience, and your stomach leaves happy too.