Review: Phở Star, casual Vietnamese in the Mission District

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I hadn’t had Vietnamese food in way too long, so when I saw that Phở Star, a new family-run phở place, had opened up on 16th Street between Guerrero and Dolores streets, I hopped to.

Its website says it’s been open in NYC’s Chinatown since 2001. The space in their Mission District outpost is modern, clean and bright, with floor-to-ceiling windows. And it’s a handy place to have dinner before or after a couple of cocktails at Elixir.

Three of us shared an order of imperial rolls:

What I really liked about these, besides the good mix of flavorful pork and veggies, was the raggedy, homemade vibe they gave, with the crispiest, crunchiest bites I’d had in an imperial roll in a while. We wolfed these down and I was tempted to order more.

When the garlic noodles I ordered for the table arrived, however, I thought I’d gone overboard.

First, they’re a lot, but second, they don’t look like much. But the aroma! The scent of garlic was so intense that I thought for sure they’d be overwhelmed, or bitter-tasting. 

I was wrong on all counts. These had the perfect amount of mellow garlicky-ness, with a delicious buttery quality, and the noodles themselves had a wonderfully bouncy and satisfying chew.  I especially loved the crispy bits of garlic on top.  

One of my friends ordered chicken phở.

He found the broth a bit bland (but admitted he’d had a cold). I admired the clarity of the broth, and got a clean chicken flavor when I tasted it, but it could have used a bit more oomph.

The other phở offerings are pretty standard — rare beef, brisket — for instance, but no tripe or tendon. They also have a chicken wonton soup.

Another at our table had the five-spice chicken bún plate.

Rather than offering a true bún dish, all the dishes under the special entrée section of the menu (lemongrass pork chop, grilled pork, shaking beef, beef stew, and vegetarian options of string bean or eggplant and tofu) come with a choice of rice, garlic noodles, salad or bún.

My friend’s bún came with the requisite nước chấm. The flavor was fine, though I found the chicken a little dry. Her main complaint was that there wasn’t any pickled radish/carrots, mint, sprouts, or basil, just a few scallions for greenery. The chicken phở at least came with veg.

I had the bún bò huế.  

Now that’s what I call a handsome bowl of soup! Unlike phở, bún bò huế has a more assertive broth, distinctly lemongrassy and with a bit of a kick.

The tender raw beef shank slices were the star of the meats, followed by the sliced pork hock and typically spongy meatballs. The steaming heat disguised some of the boldness, but once it cooled down, I was pleased with the rich spicing. And there was more than enough for another meal the next day. 

Phở Star also offers banh mi sandwiches, yellow curries, tofu rolls and chicken pot stickers in a contemporary, casual setting, reasonably priced. I’d be curious to try the all rare beef phở and a banh mi. They have decent wine, beer, and Vietnamese iced coffee.  

Phở Star may not be a destination place, but not all of them have to be. Sometimes it’s just what you find right next door.  

Phở Star
3214 16th St.
San Francisco