Michael Gagne, the board president of Tenderloin Tessie, is a busy man around this time of year.
During a recent call with Mission Local, he was simultaneously on hold with a food vendor, waiting to place an order for Thursday’s “Holiday Dinner.”
“We started preparing on November 1. I’m currently ordering salads for pickup for next Wednesday,” he explained.
Held annually on Thanksgiving, Christmas and Easter at the First Unitarian Universalist Church at 1187 Franklin St., Tenderloin Tessie’s holiday dinners are the heart of the nonprofit organization. They bring San Franciscans out in droves — whether as guests or volunteers.
Each dinner averages about 1,000 attendees, and Gagne is aware that this year there may be an uptick in numbers.
“I expect we’re going to be busier this Thanksgiving, because of the food-stamp situation right now with the current government,” he said, hence making sure all food orders were scheduled, delivered or en route.
Tenderloin Tessie got its start and name from bartender and performer Perry Spink (drag name Tessie), who handed out free turkeys to Tenderloin residents on Thanksgiving in 1974. From there, he began hosting monthly dinners for the community and distributing gift bags with donated items.
Spink died in 1984, but his community outreach continues through Tenderloin Tessie’s board members and volunteers.
Since taking on the president’s role in 2004, Gagne has modernized Tenderloin Tessie based on the community’s needs.
He started with digitizing organization-related paperwork and information, and then added features to the holiday dinners themselves, including live entertainment, clothing donations in a partnership with St. Anthony’s, and free services.
“We go above and beyond,” said Gagne.
“We’re also the only place left in town that does not treat people like cattle and have them go through a buffet line,” he said. “We serve them at the table.”
Volunteers include members of the philanthropic group the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, who Gagne says helps in myriad ways, including serving coffee. Sister Roma, a mainstay at the dinners, is the host.
“Growing up, I was shown that we feed the people we love. That is the driving force behind Tessie’s,” she said. “I’ve volunteered for 20 years, greeting guests with respect and making them feel seen, cared for and loved. To me, that is the definition of the holiday spirit.”
Guest services extend to free haircuts courtesy of LoveCuts, a pop-up barbershop set up outside of the church. It’s been a feature at the holiday dinners since 2021.
Irene Frances Carrillo, LoveCuts’ founder, is a big fan of the Sisters and of the general mission to support queer and disadvantaged communities. She offers her services at Tenderloin Tessie to make people feel better about themselves.
“Your confidence level is the front line to your health. If that confidence is breached, sicknesses and mental-health ailments can really take advantage of you,” she said.
“When you’re feeling like gold, that invincibility that you feel is a certain sort of immunity — your strength to fight things off.”
Carrillo averages 50 haircuts per holiday dinner, with a few volunteers supporting her, whether as fellow barbers, managing the line of people, or sanitizing.
“People that are waiting in line usually step in as well, and they’ll sweep our hair. It kind of creates this barbershop feel,” she said.
Another element of LoveCuts: a holiday-themed character, courtesy of Carrillo’s friend. For Christmas, they’re the Grinch; for Easter, a rabbit. And for every Thanksgiving: “The Gobbler,” a joyful turkey.
“It’s become a really big thing at Tenderloin Tessie,” said Carrillo. “LoveCuts is all about a mascot.”
Tenderloin Tessie’s free Thanksgiving dinner is from 1 to 4 p.m. on Nov. 27. It will take place at First Unitarian Universalist Church, 1187 Franklin St., San Francisco.
To volunteer at the Thanksgiving dinner, the “Tessie’s Angels: A Holiday Cabaret” fundraiser on Dec. 5 or a future Holiday Dinner, email tenderlointessie@gmail.com or call 415-584-3252.
God bless all who help the need.