The Range Pleases

I haven’t been back to Range for awhile, but Michael Bauer at the SF Chronicle still likes it.

…I ordered newer items such as the Dungeness crab rolls ($17) wrapped in sturdy greens and arranged amidst delicate herbs, fennel fronts, dices of Asian pear and buttermilk dressing. It was a fresh, masterful blend.

I also ordered the equally Asian-influenced chilled soba noodles ($15) with ginger, seaweed and sesame seeds, topped with two fingers of Mendocino sea urchin. It was clean and pleasant, a sharp contrast to the mousse and other dishes that were on the menu when Phil West and his wife, Cameron, started their journey. It’s the type of menu that is becoming as diverse as the crowds that order from it.

Mmm, those noodles sounds worth the trip. I remember it was a favorite place of Gabriela Salas from Charanga. 


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