James Choi, who owns Rhea’s Deli & Market, didn’t want to be a corner-store owner.
Choi immigrated to the United States 38 years ago from Korea at age 11, and studied computer science in college. Rhea’s was his parents’ store, but Choi had not planned to fall into the “cliche of Korean people and corner stores.”
Because of this, Choi said, he was a “little rude” when he worked at Rhea’s as a teen. But he made his way back to the store in 2002, when his dad, Brian, was getting older. He wanted extra help and promised to match his son’s corporate salary. Then Choi’s dad was diagnosed with cancer, and Choi took over.
When Choi’s first son arrived in 2007, he wondered what he wanted to teach him. The first thing that came to mind was: “‘What have you given your 100 percent to?’” Choi then realized he, too, needed to do something he was passionate about — cooking — so he opened the deli inside the store that is now a go-to for lunchtime fare.
His favorite sandwich? On a cold day, he wants something spicy and warm, he said, and on a hot day, something refreshing. Eventually, though, he picks: the “BBNG (bang bang Niner gang)” with roast beef and sun-dried tomatoes.
Choi still works at Rhea’s nearly every day. “Hello,” he calls out cheerfully to a customer walking in. “See you tomorrow,” he says to an employee heading out for the day.
He gave the job his all, but there was something else he wanted to do. For years, his family rented a two-bedroom apartment above the deli, but it began to feel small after his third kid grew older.
“I’m not too greedy,” he said. “I’m a pretty chill person.”
But he wanted to give each of his kids their own room. He bought a four-bedroom home in Bernal Heights two years ago, and now closes the store on Wednesdays — unheard of, he said, for a corner store.
“No, but good for you,” a customer said.
“Right?” Choi said. “Good for me,” he added, dancing a little.
The hardest run, Choi said, was when he opened Rhea’s Cafe, a restaurant at 20th and Bryant streets, in 2013. Managing both the restaurant and store was hard, Choi said, and felt like being “a normal person walking into a UFC cage every single day and getting your shit beat out of you.”
When his daughter arrived a few years later, he was working 60 or 70 hours a week and couldn’t see her much. It made him wonder if he was doing the right thing.
He wasn’t, he decided, and Choi closed the restaurant six years ago to spend more time with his daughter and two sons. His daughter was 1 at the time; she just turned 7. “She and I are like best friends,” Choi said. “I love my boys, but my daughter is like my baby.”
Choi believes he got his work ethic from his dad, but he doesn’t know if it was “the right way.” Choi sometimes tells his kids to find their passion and give 100 percent, he said, but he realizes not many people could work 15 years without taking a day off. Now Choi wants his kids to “just live their life.” It’s unfair, he said, to ask them to do what he has done.
“People work hard wanting free time, wanting to spend more time with family, but you just end up just working harder and harder until you get real old,” Choi said. “My dad never really had a chance to enjoy life.” His dad survived the cancer, though, and is now enjoying life, Choi said. The two had lunch earlier in the day.
This is such a cute story (also the sandwiches are baller)
Absolutely love Rhea’s! Thank you for sharing more about James.
I’ve always loved this place. Such good sandwiches and the staff is cool.
An inspiring profile! It seems Mr. Choi’s “why” has always been his family. Sounds like his customers appreciate him too. I’ll bookmark this store and remember to try a sandwich if in the neighborhood.
We love James!! Thanks for being awesome and standing as a role model for us all ^.^
Great place, solid profile… but who is Rhea? (Pronounced “ray,” I’ve been told.)