永興餅店的法式小面包(摄/Yujie Zhou)

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The exterior of Dragon City Bakery & Café is by no means the most alluring on Mission Street, with its faded sign, bleak lighting and unremarkable facade. Few newcomers would guess that, every day, 3,000 French rolls — a Mexican staple — travel from Dragon City to every corner of the Bay Area’s Latinx community.

At four o’clock on a recent afternoon, the kitchen had just filled the glass case by the cash register with freshly baked French rolls.

“These taste the same as the ones I ate in Mexico, and they bring back memories of my country,” said Ana Rosa Espinoza, who was there with her two teenage sons. “In Mexico, each family cuts the bread, puts tamal inside, and eats it with coffee.” 

Espinoza has been coming here, to Mission Street between 19th and 20th streets, every day for the past six years, because her sons want French rolls with every meal. She bought 10 and happily told Kaman Au, the cashier, a little secret: “Eating this bread with Coca-Cola is the best!”

Victor Doran came alone. But just like Espinoza, they both greeted Au by deftly pointing at the rolls. Doran walked away with 20 French rolls for $10, and a reservation for 160 more to pick up on Saturday, no matter that he had to drive over from Richmond.

“We have customers who live in San Jose who come every week to the Mission to buy these French rolls,” said Au, who busily refilled the case every time supply grew low.

Dragon City Bakery & Café. Photo by Yujie Zhou.

For the 57-year-old owner of Dragon City Bakery, Henry Chen, the popularity of his French rolls is no accident. After arriving in the United States in 1984, the Chinese immigrant spent years learning Americans’ tastes in pastries from Safeway. He later refined his skills at a bakery in the Mission, where he learned from a French pastry chef.

When Chen first laid plans for his own Mission bakery in 1992, he thought “all I needed was to do three things right: the French rolls, pastries and birthday cakes.” 

He spent a year perfecting his French rolls: mastering his grasp of the equipment, exploring the fermentation process, and experimenting with different ingredient ratios.

“I can say mine is basically the same as the original in Mexico, except for any difference caused by the weather. It’s a little bit colder and windy in San Francisco,” Chen said. 

After 29 years, his customers still seem to agree.

According to Chen, every Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year, customers line up in front of Dragon City Bakery and buy 5,000 French rolls within two hours of opening. 

But Chen refused to take all the credit. “Pete’s Bar-B-Que next door sells turkey to put in the rolls. People also come to my shop because it’s convenient.” 

Since the pandemic, sales of the coffee and Chen’s signature birthday cakes, once popular at the quinceañeras of local girls, have dwindled. French rolls, however, are selling better than ever.

“People are eating at home more,” said Chen. “My ‘pork bun’ (his nickname for the French roll) is as essential to some people here as rice is to Chinese.”

Henry Chen. Photo by Yujie Zhou.

Chen’s business hasn’t survived solely on the lure of the French rolls. He also credits the honest character of people in the Mission. Back in the ’90s, he let people in the neighborhood pay on credit. “I remember there were a dozen people in their 70s who would sometimes come in and say, ‘I don’t have any money today. Can I make a monthly payment?’ and I would let them,” said Chen, who then gave a sly smile. “But when it got to be over $300, they needed to start paying.”

As he gradually established himself, he gained prestige among new immigrants from China. “Eighty percent of Bay Area Chinese bakeries learned from me. I hear I have six generations of apprentices,” said Chen, who acts as a consultant for other local bakeries. “When they come to me with a new product, if I say yes, they try it. If I say no, they drop it.”

As for the aging store layout, Chen said, “I sell ‘rice.’ Changing the original decoration would be a loss of tradition.”

What if eventually the younger generation stops coming? “I’m not worried,” said Chen. “They grew up eating my French rolls.”

Birthday cakes. Photo by Yujie Zhou.
Dragon City Bakery & Café. Photo by Yujie Zhou.
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Yujie Zhou is our newest intern. Before falling in love with the Mission, she covered New York City, studied politics through the “street clashes” in Hong Kong, and earned a wine-tasting certificate in two days. She’s proud to be a bilingual journalist. Follow her on Twitter @Yujie_ZZ.

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9 Comments

  1. I grew up in the Mission! And Drangon city bakery was our go to for a quick morning snack. From Birthday cakes to hotdog buns my mother adored there sweet dinner rolls in there hot box. We always had there fresh French bread love this bakery. Brings back beautiful childhood memories. Even more since we left California. Thank you! For the beautiful memories. May you thrive threw many more generations to come Happy New Years!

  2. A true American melting pot story. Bravery (the immigration), strong work ethic ( working for others and learning business skills, risk taker ( starting his own business) and pillar of the community ( willingness to help ( the seniors and teach the next generations) . A true pilar of the community. Well done Henry Chen you are a true American and inspiration to all world wide.

  3. Love this place! I agree that the decor is very dated and kind of tacky, but if the shop had a ‘make-over’ it wouldn’t be the same. It’s definitely part of the Mission just the way it is. Everything here is good…even the styrofoam cupped coffee!

  4. Another great article by Yujie Zhou. Please keep up your terrific reportage, Ms. Zhou!

    I’m looking forward to visiting this bakery to try Mr. Chen’s products. It sounds wonderful.

  5. Love this story! Well written and researched, you help me appreciate the neighborhood even more. I was born here and returned in 1984 and always enjoy learning in-depth details about the city.

  6. I love this place. The humble cashier/ host. The folks that hung out pre-pandemic. Despite the ever changing Mission, this is a great unpretentious establishment that everyone can afford.
    This is one of the places that I want to see continue on.
    I wish they’d do baked sesame balls, that’s less greasy.

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