Places like La Urbana, which was reviewed in the SF Chronicle, are getting strong reviews for moving beyond the burrito and taco fare of the Mission.

Anyone who gives an up-market twist to Mexican food will be larded with criticisms about the menu and prices. Note to naysayers: This is not the place for people who think you should get change back from a $10 bill when you eat Mexican food. This is for those who appreciate the complex qualities of the cuisine and understand that it’s as varied and expressive as French, Italian or Northern Californian.

It’s good. I’ve tried it as well. The same can be said for Mamacita’s on Chestnut or Doña Tomás in Temescal.

So, is there a Mexican restaurant planned for the Mission that will offer a more varied fare? Or is that unnecessary?

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I’ve been a Mission resident since 1998 and a professor emeritus at Berkeley’s J-school since 2019. I got my start in newspapers at the Albuquerque Tribune in the city where I was born and raised. Like many local news outlets, The Tribune no longer exists. I left daily newspapers after working at The New York Times for the business, foreign and city desks. Lucky for all of us, it is still here.

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2 Comments

  1. Spots like Mamacita’s, Dona Tomas, and Urbano prove there can be Mexican restaurants that are sit down, use fresh ingredients, and are upscale with nary a burrito or refried bean in sight. Tacolicious on Valencia St has been packed with waiting lines since it opened; the nearby Mexican places are barely half full on the weekends.

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  2. Can’t this be said for Regalito Rosticeria and The Little Chihuahua as well? I think the Mission still holds the title of best Mexican.

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