In one year, Mission resident Josey Baker transitioned from elementary school science teacher to bread baker. Although he is a relative newcomer to a breadbaking scene that includes Tartine, Sour Flour and Arizmendi, he’s determined to find a place. His efforts started last year when a friend gave Baker some starter and instructions. The next day he made sourdough bread — and Baker became, well, a baker. He’s now a one-man machine, and has pick-up spots in the Mission District and Oakland. Go to his blog to order by the loaf ($5) or sign up for a $20 monthly bread subscription.
Mission Loc@l broke bread with Baker at his Wednesday baking spot, Mission Pie, to discuss this change and what’s next. Today he’s selling cinnamon raisin bread starting at 5 p.m.
ML: How did you go from science teacher to bread baker?
JB: I was baking bread all the time and giving it away. Then someone said I should sell it, and I was taking orders from my co-workers and friends. I had pick-ups in the Mission at Gravel & Gold and Amnesia, where I bartend a couple nights a week. It grew from 20 to 30 loaves a week to 40. I never could have predicted this.
ML: How did you become a self-taught baker?
JB: I bought 15-20 books and read everything I could get my hands on. I talked to people like Jeff Krupman [the PizzaHacker who learned from Chad Robertson at Tartine] and David Muller [Outerlands]. I experimented a lot.
ML: I love that your last name is Baker. Any bakers in the family?
JB: My father said his mother was a baker, and my mom is a great cook and baker. I’ve always loved bread. I’m a bread guy. My parents have been very supportive. It was time for me to do something else, and baking allowed me to make that transition.
ML: While making that transition, what were the challenges?
JB: I was baking out of my oven at home, but eventually I couldn’t meet the demand. At Mission Pie I use a large commercial oven, and for the first time I have more supply than demand. I want to push this to the max and then maybe try baking other things.
ML: The Mission has some great bakeries, like Tartine and Arizmendi. How do you fit into the mix?
JB: What sets me apart is that I am the only person doing it. The guy baking the bread is the one selling the bread. People like being that connected to the food they’re eating. They are “hungry” for that connection.
ML: What about Danny of Sour Flour? He also bakes and personally sells sourdough bread.
JB: We have a lot in common. Danny is making great bread, and we have a great relationship in which we trade ideas and provide support for each other. I offer a different bread each week, bake at a few different locations, primarily sell bread subscriptions, and have pick-up spots where I also sell to walk-in customers. As for quality comparisons, you’ll have to ask our customers about that!
ML: What are your most popular breads?
JB: People say the one I’m baking that week! Black pepper parmesan is a favorite. Seed Feast is a sleeper hit (sunflower, pumpkin and flaxseed).
ML: What do you eat in the Mission besides bread?
JB: Mission Chinese Food’s thrice-cooked bacon. El Metate for burritos. The burger at Zeitgeist. Four Barrel coffee. Rhea’s Deli’s pork katsu sandwich in Dolores Park.