Food and Wine named Joshua Skenes from Saison one of its 10 best new chefs this year.

Saison started out a few years ago as a weekend restaurant in the back of the Stable, our neighborhood joint just south of 17th Street on Folsom. It has morphed into a full-week dinner spot with a wonderful dining room — still in the back of the Stable.

It opened in the midst of a recession, and while other places were going for the mid-range meal, Saison’s definitely an upper-range restaurant. Given the economy, I didn’t expect it to make it, but it’s thrived.

We went for my birthday at the end of November, and it was easy to see why Skenes and his kitchen have done so well using locally produced ingredients. The courses are small and plentiful, and each has a distinct taste and texture.

It’s fussy — the food is the center of attention — but in a way that’s OK for special meals that take forever to prepare.

Lydia Chávez

I’ve been a Mission resident since 1998 and a professor at Berkeley’s J-school since 1990. My earlier career was at The New York Times working for the business, foreign and city desks. As an old...

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *