The Mission could never claim Incanto, the Italian restaurant on Church Street, but plenty of us ate there. Now, it’s closing and SF Weekly, crediting SF Gate, points out why its closing is not just another shuttered restaurant.
Paolo Lucchesi wrote a thoughtful piece in the Chronicle about why Incanto mattered: Not only did it popularize the bits of animals that people weren’t eating as much, it was also one of the first to offer complimentary filtered water (flat and bubbly), have an all-Italian wine list, and offer medical benefits to employees. And its impact on the popularization of offal — the heads, tails, brains, glands, innards, and other piddly animal bits — can’t be overemphasized.
The piece points out that the owners are hardly going away.
Don’t worry, though, Costentino’s not decamping for New York or anything like that. As he and co-owner Mark Pastore explained in a very sweet blog post, they are simply changing their restaurant’s name and concept. The new Porcellino, coming late spring, will be a more casual, neighborhood-y affair. READ MORE.